So one night I was driving my car and as I came up to a stop light my> car died. It took a couple times to get it started. Then it was> fine. > Then a couple days later I was driving my car then all of a sudden my> check engine light comes on and the car just dies. That day it> started right back up. The next day it does the same thing. It's> been an ongoing process. Some days when I drive it the check engine> light comes on and it will either start right back up or I have to let> it sit for quite a while before it will fire back up.> I took it in to have it fixed. They replaced the coil, spark plugs,> and some valve gaskets. That was not the problem. The check engine> light came on and was doing the same thing. So then I got a main> relay for my car and replaced that. It ran fine for a small while> then the check engine light came on again. So I'm pretty much> clueless as far as what the hell is wrong with my car. If you have> any ideas of what it could be that would be great!>

I have a 2004 Honda Accord with just over 26 thousand miles

and the

original battery.

Is it time for me to replace the battery yet? On the one

hand, I do

NOT believe in waiting for the battery to go bad.

Some people say

that can tell by the fact that they need to crank a bit

longer to

start the car, but I'm not sure I'd notice.

Even if I knew I would

notice and avoided getting stranded, I'd rather get it

done at my

leisure rather than have to drop everything I'm doing to

take care of

it.

On the other hand, the fact that a Honda battery (assuming

it isn't

the original one, which is warrantied for only 3 years,

with the last

year prorated) is warrantied for 100 months (first 3 years

fully

warrantied, remaining term prorated) makes me think I

could wait at

least another year. The general rule I've heard is to

replace a

battery a year before the warranty expires.

I live in Iowa, so I'm not subject to the battery-killing

heat of

Phoenix, Las Vegas, or Tucson. Of course, I've heard that

very cold

temperatures (like last winter) are also bad for car

batteries.

Hello, Group:

I have more information on my problems with my Accord. After taking

it to the repair shop to have the O2 sensors and the CAT replaced, the

car seems to have transmission problems.

Symptom: Moving the car between gears causes a jerk. When I'm idle

and go to accelerate the car jerks, sometimes very hard.

--tj

My 5-speed shifter is getting kind of squeaky and it seems like it

needs lubrication in the area

under the shift lever boot. How do I access this area ? Do I need to

pull the console ? Is it accessible from beneath the car ? Does the

shifter boot some how come off so that it can be lifted up ?

I recenlty replaced the brake switch at the pedal (couldn't get lights

or out of park without using the emergency release on the column).

Obviously there isn't much to go wrong on this repair, but

coincidentally or not, I now have an intermitent situation where the

brake pedal remains in a partially depressed position after getting

into gear and movement can only be achieved under the drag of the

brake. My wife claims that this occurs while at cruise occassionally

resulting in the van shuttering violently. It is only resovled at

cruise by her lifting the pedal upward with her foot to relieve the

pressure.

I got it resolved this morning, but have no idea how. Cycled the car

on and off, forward to reverse a few times, removed cap to the fluid

reservoir, then it went back to normal.

I have checked for obstruction at the pedal and for proper

installation of the switch, nothing. It seems to be hydraulic like a

suction.

I appreciate any thoughts. (ABS, Master Cylinder, etc.....)

But the difference between the best to the worst is still only 0.8

problem per car. (Jeep's 167 - Porsche's 87) / 100

Our 1992 Honda Accord has the spark plug holes on the valve cover

labeled "2, 3, 4, 5." Why are they not lavbeled 1,2,3,4,? Doesa this

mean someone switched the valve cover from another car? We bought it

used. Thank you. Actually what car would say 2-5 anyway?

I have recently started to hear scratching noises while turning the

steering wheel on my '97 Accord. How critical of a problem is this?

If it's just a minor annoyance, then I will hold off on fixing it

until the next time I need to take my car in for maintenance.

Originally posted here...I can't find it to paste in. Bottom line:

batt drains seemingly at random til car is dead, dead, dead. Can

happen driving or overnight. New batt. Alt OK. Fuses OK. Test

light showed no parasitic draw with multiple tests over time.

So: I did it differently this time. I hooked the V/O meter up to

check for batt drain and sure enough you could watch it falling off

from 12.5v down to the high 10's low 11's...until I pulled the fuse

for the interior lighting circuit when it stabilized. Further

discovered that if the driver's door is closed (circuit supposedly

open) I get the voltage leak-off. If door is open everythink is OK.

Passenger door switch does not cause same behaviour. Chased wires and

saw that drivers door switch wire(just one) only runs to the passenger

door switch. That is to say that this wire appears to only have 2

points, A and B, and goes nowhere else in the car. This circuit only

seems to connect the two door switches. If true, how the hell does

this circuit operate? I thought I was so close. Help guys! Thanks.

hi

I have a 2005 Honda Civic LX. the car has just passed its 36,000

mileage mark. According to the manual only the brake fluid needs to

be flushed and refilled.

What about the the transmission and coolant?. The manual states

110,000 miles but yet when i talked to the honda Serivice at the local

dealership they said i need to drain the cooland and transmission

every 30K miles.

Please advice who should i go with?

thanks