starting it, it's sounds terrible when it's being cranked.

Then after it starts it runs fine except for the tapping, it's louder than

just a tick tick like a tappet, but it's not a real heavy metal to metal

thunk thunk either, except when cranking to start.

you brake and run the engine up over 1.1k or 1.2k, the noise just goes

away, or at least is almost undetectable. It is noticable at idle, louder

when decelerating, and loudest when cranking to start.

rod bearings. Didn't help. Everything else looked fine. Compression test

and leak down were good. Had the oil analyzed for metal particles, it

seemed fine. It doesn't miss or anything. It doesn't use much oil or

water, a little but nothing out of the ordinary for a 14 year old car. It

runs fine, except the noise.

3, but I'm no tech.

say for sure what it is. Of course they won't mind charging to take the

engine apart and start replacing things until they get it right, but I'd

like someone to know for sure what it is BEFORE they start into it.

My '93 300 E makes a high pitched whining noise or squeal at startup

and goes away after it warms up. Sometimes it goes away after 10

seconds, sometimes it takes a minute and sometimes it doesn't squeal at

all.

I have been looking at this model and would like any input anyone would

have. Thank you, and have a nice day.

On Fri, 19 Jan 2007 09:22:09 -0800, "John" <janderson3@nc.rr.c­om>

wrote:

understand it any better than you do. The codes can send an

experienced tech running in circles sometimes, because the problem the

computer sees (the code it displays) is the RESULT of the problem, not

always the cause. An engine can throw a "lean run" type code without

any code referring to the O2 sensor, and the O2 sensor can be the

fault. Likewise, it can throw an O2 sensor code when it is actually

something causing the engine to run so rich or so lean that the O2

sensor can't clock. - Many other situations like that where you can

end up replacing a bushel of parts and still not find the problem.

The dealer tech has the best chance of finding the problem first try -

because he's more likely to already have seen it before. A good

independent who is familiar with make and model CAN be just as good,

but you don't know until you try.

The partscounter guy at AutoZone? The service is only worth something

if YOU know what to look for for a given code. He sure doesn't, unless

he's a mechanic who for some physical reason has had to quit wrenching

and is now making a living selling parts. They are few and far

between, but you MIGHT get lucky - there are a few out there.

The concept that alignment is a job for the pros reminds me of a guy at

work from 20+ years ago. He was one of the guys that did field

service of our computer equipment. A real nice guy, but no common

sense and he was always getting himself into trouble because of it.

The guy was alwasy just about broke and people were always feeling

sorry for him and trying to give him advice to help him out, but to no

avail.

front suspension of his Dodge Diplomat, which had broken. Now this guy

lived in an apartment building and had limited tools, no lift, jack

stands etc. Doesn't seem like the kind of job I'd attempt, given that

you could have it done professionally at a reasonable price. I

suggested it would likely be better and worth it to take it to a shop.

On Monday he comes in with his arm in a sling, having injured it while

doing the work.

alignment, which again, he's gonna do himself. I try to tell him that

I don't see how that's possible without the right equipment. He says

no problem, you just measure a few things using a ruler, no problem.

I try to tell him this is one of those things you shouldn't do yourself

and he can get it professionally done at that time for $75-100.

About 3 months later, he;s telling me his latest tale of trouble.

Seems his front tires, which are relatively new, are now bald on the

edges of the tread and he needs new ones.

was driving their car and had an accident. He was going around telling

everyone how unfair it was because she was being blaimed for the

accident. Seems she was crossing a wet bridge, lost control, spun out

and into the path of a car coming the other way. He kept saying "It

wasn't her fault. HE hit her!"

I've had the car for nearly six years (not from new) and it's been

fine apart from new anti-roll bushes (I think) when under warranty.

It's now just passed the 100, 000 miles and no other problems apart

from normal service items.It had this 'F' fault about 40,000 back but

it disappeared when I shut the engine off and restareted - hasn't

happened agaian until now. Have been reading that it could be a

Selector Unit fault in that it supplies fluid at the wrong pressure,

causing first gear to spin. We'll see....it's in with MB specialist

who is going to renew the fluid and filter as a first step.