Friday, 1 August 2008
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| 1999 SL2 John 18:40:14 |
| | I have a four door 1999 Saturn SL2 Automatic that just recently started having electrical issues. About two months ago was driving in extreme heat, shut off to fill with gas, and would not restart. After sitting in shade for about an hour (jump did no good battery fine) it restarted and made it home and then died again. Helpful mechanic diagnosed it with testing meter to be Relay switch--and we replaced the main one and the one that controlls the AC to be safe (and even bought two spare just in case). Ran great for about a month. Then another scorcher....died....remote keys/alarm would not work/radio would not work/car would not start/ headlights work/interior light works/dash lights come on when try to start.....no fix when change out relay switches.....Let car sit for 2-3 hours....started and ran fine for 1-2 weeks (but radio/clock all reset)
Happened again today...very hot and humid...all above symptoms...towed home....called mechanic and described...he wants me to research too as he's stumped. Luckily home and so is car...and can borrow if can...research seeming to say to start with Crank Position Sensor? Does this sound posible? I'm sure it will be tough to test as by the time he can look at it, it will probably start again...and I do not have much knowledge or meters...I just need advice to help point him and not empty my bank. Any/all help will be GREATLY appreciated!!! Thanks
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| Re: Vehicles of 2010 may move only with hydrogen Jon Jon 17:22:59 |
| | I'd rather have a real car that has performance.
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| Re: steering wheel locks Oppie 06:24:28 |
| | The key is supposed to work either side. I find it goes into the cylinder easier on one side than the other. A tiny bit of grease applied to the tip of the key may help. Insert it several times and then wipe off. If you turned the wheel after the key was removed in order to seat the locking pawl, the wheel may have to be slightly turned to take the load off of the pawl before the key can be turned. Make sense? Oppie 2001 lw300
"dodger" <milwheel03@yahoo.ca> wrote in message news:df5914e0-d53b-4357-a61d-71eb8771800c@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
I have a question that is causing a lot of concern.............I have a 2002 L-Series Saturn and it has become increasingly difficult to get the steering wheel to unlock so the car will start. Sometimes it seems hard to get the key into the ignition and when the key does go in, its hard to get the wheel to unlock. Once unlocked, the car starts fine. May I ask if that sounds familiar at all and, if so, what might be the cause. Thank you for any response.. cheers dodger
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Thursday, 31 July 2008
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| adjusting trunk latch and lid Marx404 14:09:02 |
| | After our "techs" failed to fix the problem with my trunk lid hitting and cutting into the upper bumper of my '07 ION, I took matters into my own hands and tried adjusting the lower trunk latch. It was surprisingly easy, only 2 bolts and viola! no more trunk smashing into my bumper. I did notice that the lower hook of the latch also can be used to align the trunk . I eyeballed it pretty good, but does anyone have any tips to properly adjusting the trunk lid as straight as possible?
-- marx404
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Tuesday, 29 July 2008
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| Aura AM radio issue Usenet User 05:10:48 |
| | Wanted to listen to an AM station today and AM sounds like it is way off frequency. Station cannot really be heard. Sounds like a low level sideband signal. Can this thing have gotten out of calibration? Is there a way to adjust or recalibrate it myself? ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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Friday, 25 July 2008
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| L-300 New Tires?? Guest 00:36:49 |
| | OK I need your help! I was at my dealer this past weekend getting an Oil Change and they said that I only have 15% thread on all my tires and they need to be replaced. They gave me a quote of around $700! for all four replacements with an alignment, and labor. This seems a little high to me, so I was wondering if I could get a better deal somewhere else? What tires do you recommend for this Saturn? Thanks!!
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Thursday, 24 July 2008
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| Re: EGR operation 95 SL2 Oppie 17:53:43 |
| | Speaking in general - the vacuum operated EGR is driven from a vacuum sensing port in the throttle body. This vacuum signal is usually shut off until the engine is at operating temperature. The vacuum signal is also combined in a control valve with an exhaust back pressure measurement. The objective is to get EGR only when engine is warmed up and then at a rate proportional to the intake air mass-flow to the throttle body. Ultimately Exhaust gas recirculation reduces available oxygen (totally counter-intuitive) in the cylinder. That reduces peak temperature which controls pinging and reduces NOx formation.
The Electric EGRs are sometimes modulated solenoids and others are step motors. Some have a feedback device on the pintile position and others are completely open loop. Your '95 ECU is looking to control the EGR and is not seeing anything. Automatic tests that the onboard computers are getting devilishly smart at finding bypassed or defective emission control systems. At a most simple level, the ECU tests the EGR drive coil(s) for opens or shorts. Then it tries to move the EGR pintile (with engine warm) and detects a change in the pintile position feedback (if your motor used that) or looks at the O2 sensor for a corresponding change.
Given all that, probably best to use the EGR that was on the original motor, make an adaptor plate and plumbing adaptation. My guess is that swapping the ECU from the new motor will give you other compatibility issues. I hope someone can prove my assessment wrong.
Oppie
<eric.ellsworth@polarisind.com> wrote in message news:13aa215e-21ce-4608-8bcc-be228eeed20e@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
I have a question for the super-nerdy, need to know how everything works type. If this is you, read on, perhaps you can shed some light on the situation. I swapped the motor on my 95 SL2, that motor had the electrically operated EGR. The motor I installed is a 94 twincam with vacuum operated EGR. Unfortunately for me, the EGR mounting is different between the two model years. The head for the 95 is junk, so a head swap is at this time not the preferred option. Can someone describe in detail, the EGR process for the electrically operated EGR. The vacuum operated EGR I assume is controlled by the PCM, as it has an electric solenoid to switch the vacuum to the EGR. The check engine light comes on after I drive a short distance, with no egr connected. This is more of a nuisence than anything. Is it possible to "convert" to a vacuum EGR, and eliminate the check engine warning, short of installing a PCM and chassis harness from a MY94? ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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| Seatbelt Issue WendyC88 13:19:23 |
| | Hi. I bought my daughter a 97 SC2, great little car, but we are stumped with trying to fix a problem. The driver and passenger seat belts re not rewinding properly. We can pull them out and the emergency stop latch works, but they will not retract. We have to push them back in.
Is there an adjustment or something we can do? Are they easy to take out an install if I find some at a pick and pull type place? Thanks!
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Wednesday, 23 July 2008
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| '05 Vue Wheel Bearings JohnS 17:07:09 |
| | 2005 VUE, FWD, V6 Auto. Took to dealer for howling noise and as I suspected, all 4 wheel bearings need replaced. Fortunatly, all under warranty. My worry is why in the world would these bearings go bad at 43,000 miles? If this is normal, I guess I will be soon looking for another car!
JohnS San Diego, CA
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Monday, 21 July 2008
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| Re: Small problems hopefully. Oppie 20:18:43 |
| | Be good to say which wagon model it was. Can't help you with the lift gate release but on the dome lamp, is it the center or cargo area dome lamp? I have a 2001 lw300 and the cargo dome lamp went on the fritz. Traced it to a bad diode in the left side fuse panel (by driver's left foot). Replaced the diode and all was good. Both dome lamps should come on when you open a side door (depending on position of switched on dome lamp. similarly both come on when you hit unlock on the key fob. Power for these circuits comes through the BCM.
"johninKY" <gflong@nospam.kih.net> wrote in message news:8b7e83640da6322db958b8b616860722@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
99 Saturn wagon. Wife's car. Dome light has stopped working. Bulb good, just no power to the fixture. Wife also told me the key fob thingee that she uses to activate the dome light doesn't anymore. Other problem is the inside, down by the seat, lever that opens the back hatch has stopped working. Look for a cable but appears there is no cable. Exactly what releases the latch in the hatch anyways? John -- Message posted using ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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| 1995 Saturn SL1 reverse/back-up lights & switch Roger E 20:11:36 |
| | Car: 1995 Saturn SL1 SOHC.
Symptom: Both reverse/back-up lights do not turn on when in reverse gear.
My troubleshooting: From reading my Haynes manual.... I located the Back-up Light Switch on top of the manual transaxle. 1. The Back-up Light fuse is good. 2. Bulbs test fine. 3. There is circuit continuity between Back-up Light fuse (at front engine fuse box) and lamps and also from the Back-up Light fuse and the right contact of the switch plug (view w/ clip @ top). 4. With ignition ON (engine not running) I read 12.7V at the right terminal of the Back-up Light fuse. In this state I read only 60mV at the right contact of the switch plug and the lamp terminal with the bulb removed. 5. Wires and Wire-harness look in good shape.
From the circuit diagram I should be reading Voltage on the battery side of the switch connector, then also on the ground side of the switch when in reverse if the switch is good. Right now it seems that I cannot conclude that the switch is bad by testing it properly.
*from a suggestion on another forum.... With ignition key OFF, I unplugged the 2-wire connector from the switch, closed (short w/ wire) the circuit on both terminals of the connector.... turned ON ignition key.... still no light, also ran engine.... still no light.
Any thoughts? Thanks very much for your assistance, much appreciated. Cheers, Roger
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Sunday, 20 July 2008
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| Re: AC refrigerant R12a vs R134 Jay R 17:34:16 |
| | R12 (never heard of 12a) is no longer sold in the US except in a recycled form. It is a CFC and death to Ozone. Very expensive as well.
You can't just change gases. Your system must be spec'd to use R 12 or one of the drop in replacements. The drop ins are blends of several gases as are most of the newer products so you can't just add them to a system with 12 in it. You have to recover, evacuate and then charge to specific weighted charges or with pressure gages depending on the system.
R-134 is NOT a substitute. It runs at different pressures.
Different oils, compressors, valves and seals.
If you do not know what you are doing, don't, it will end up costing you a fortune to get it unscrewed..
You also need to have the EPA cert before you touch anything which could cause an accidental release of refrigerant to the atmosphere.
"Private" <please@dont.bother> wrote in message news:g5oe75$se7$1@aioe.org...
Can any of the AC experts discuss R12a refrigerant, which is claimed to be OK for ozone layer (and legal) but superior performing compared to R134. TIA
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Friday, 18 July 2008
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| Help.....Tire Sizes J. 22:59:24 |
| | I have a 2006 Saturn Ion that has P195 60 R15 size tires. Would it be OK to replace with P195 70 R15.....or maybe P195 65 R15 size tires. Would it make much difference in the way the drives on curvy paved roads?
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| share result Saturn SL1 thermostat / temp sensor. Roger E 19:43:22 |
| | results to share w/ folks....
Car: 1995 Saturn SL1 SOHC.
Symptom: Temperature gauge reads temperature but engine is running cool. Temp Gauge below typical running temperature. About 2 minutes after car starts running the radiator fan starts and runs until ignition is off. Season is summer; environmental temp is about 27 deg Celsius. Typical drive is 60 minutes duration. Engine is not overheating. No leaks in coolant system/hoses, reservoir level is good. Coolant mix is ethylene-glycol coolant with distilled water in a 70:30 ratio.
My thoughts: From reading my Haynes manual, it appears the thermostat is stuck open. However it appeared to be also a sensor problem as the fan is running on....
Troubleshooting: 1. Wiring harness ok 2. checked the PCM/CCC/computer trouble codes = code 14 only. Temp sensor high temp. 3. I replaced the engine coolant temp sensor and viola the problem is resolved. The new sensor (Niehoff) has a brass body at the sensor tip. The original was a plastic body and it appeared to have a small crack in the body. I hear there's alot of trouble with these. Anyway lookup a great how-to-fix video on Youtube ... very well done by Richard ("richpin06a") http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC0U53w_Htk 4. I did not replace the thermostat.
Cheers, Roger
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Thursday, 17 July 2008
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| 1997 SW1 A/C commpressor replacement Billycat 16:17:28 |
| | I was wondering if anyone here could help. I need to replace the A/C compressor on my SW1 and I am trying to locate the dryer unit but it seems to be tucked away somewhere that I can't see from looking down under the hood. Can anyone tell me where this is located? Even better, is there any websites that have specific diagrams of my engine compartment? Any help would be appreciated
- Bill
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| Re: 78.3 mpg Ford Focus Jon Houston 15:07:52 |
| | Focus's don't have much "pick up" - I'll pass up gas mileage for a car with "pick up".
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Wednesday, 16 July 2008
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| GM Breifing - CNN Live Marx404 04:08:02 |
| | I am watching CNN Live right now, Wagoner just stated that they will no longer have interest in sponsoring any Motorsports. Bummer. So far, they have been very vague about what they are doing with Saturn, except that they have insinuated that Saturn will remain. They have said that they have NO plans to increase advertising beyond what they are doing right now. They seem to be purposely avoiding answering any questions directly targeted at Saturn division.
-- marx404
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Tuesday, 15 July 2008
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| 2002 SL1 intake gasket Hubops 05:46:51 |
| | My friendly neighbourhood Saturn dealer is saying that my intake manifold gasket is faulty. I was in for routine oil/tranny fluid change. No symptoms - that I can tell. yet... What symptoms should I be looking for ? Will it likely fail suddenly or gradual ? 120,000 km on the car. Thx. John T.
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Friday, 11 July 2008
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| another day another tech Steph 06:42:43 |
| | quick followup to a previous post of mine. I had purchased a new (ebay) remote keyfob. But when I took the car to have it programmed (2001 LW-200), the service advisor returned it to me with the dash lit like a christmas tree and told me the BCM was bad and the keyfob could not be programmed.
I had never seen the dash light like that (on this car) previously.The first restart and it was all normal again so I took it home as was - still without remote lock/unlock or security features.
Well time passed and I dealt with no remote working until it was time for a oil change. I asked again for them to program the keyfob, 20 minutes later (well okay, 65 minutes including the oil change, rotation, programming, and exterior wash) and I have access to the security alarm, remote lock/unlock and happiness.
I still have yet to see the BCM throw such an error, and the car continues to drive fine (well at least I know what it still needs).
Moral: just as with help desk support, asking a different person will often yield a different answer.
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Tuesday, 8 July 2008
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| Re: 2003 ION battery question. Bob Shuman 18:21:02 |
| | When you "jump start" a car, you provide an "assist" to a weak battery. The running vehicle's alternator also charges the weak battery in the process.
I'd suggest you find an automatic battery charger and leave it on the old battery overnight, then try to start it in the morning and use the jump start if needed again. At this point, you likely have a completely drained battery. Getting it to that state is not at all good for the battery and may have rendered it unusable since when it is at a low charge the battery builds lead sulfates that short it out internally. Worst case, and more than likely, you will need to replace the battery.
Bob
"nightrider.36" <alex.cordero@gmail.com> wrote in message news:91bee8d1-37ee-40eb-8450-43bcafcb7c11@59g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
I have a 2003 ION that I'm selling. The only thing is that it's been sitting in backyard for about four months. I tried to jump start it and although I get 12+ volts into the battery and all the lights and alarms energize, the car will not start. It doesn't turn over, it just clicks. I can't imagine the problem being anything but the battery since it has not been driven. So, I guess I don't know a lot about car batteries. Does jump starting a car mean that you're also charging its battery? Can a car battery be re-charged? Should I have kept the car with the good battery that I was jumping from on longer? Should I just get a new battery? Suggestions? Thanks. -ac
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Monday, 7 July 2008
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| Re: Saturn Transmission Code Help Bob Shuman 21:39:07 |
| | This error probably indicts a defective 3rd gear shift solenoid. The solenoids can be checked by measuring the resistance at the top after removing the connector. This is easy to access right under the air breather tube. As I recall, resistance should be between 4 and 6 ohms on all of the solenoids. If you find a bad one it will measure differently. There are only 2 connections per solenoid and each pair are adjacent to each other on the connector. For what it is worth, solenoids are replaceable parts and are sold at the dealer parts counter. If you open up the trans cover (not needed to make the resistance measurement) then you will also need to replace the cover gasket at that time too.
By the way, the worst part of this job is scraping the old gasket off and keeping the debris from falling into the transmission... this is the only drawback I have found to having the cover access on the top side of the TAAT transmission. Good luck and hope this info helps. If all solenoids are good, then clean the connector or wait for whatever is intermittent (speed sensor, solenoid, CPU, etc.) to fail permanently to make it easier to diagnose.
Bob
<bajazza@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:400fa85b-b226-4163-9510-01c63ae7a75c@z72g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
Hi, I have a '96 Saturn SL2, great car with no problems except this: I have a check engine light on, had it scanned and comes up with code P0733 (trans 3rd gear error) Does anyone know the procedure to fix this? The tranny does shift funny out of 3rd sometimes so its a real code. I just know where to start..thanks in advance! Jay
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Friday, 4 July 2008
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| Re: Where to buy 3rd party Roof Racks for 04 Vue ??? Be 05:04:01 |
| | http://search.stores.ebay.com/Bill-Dodge-BMW-GMC-Pontiac-Buick_Vue-roof-rack_W0QQfciZQ2d1QQfclZ4QQfsnZBillQ20DodgeQ20BMWQ2dGMCQ2dPontiacQ2dBuickQQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQsaselZ209307363QQsofpZ0
I bought a pair for my Ion3 New and delivered as promised...
"Tarnum" <trent_rivers@yahoo.ca> wrote in message news:07c461bd-e1ea-4f02-82e8-a149094ee592@25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
Looking for suggestions on where to buy 3rd party roof racks for an 04 Vue. I prefer not to buy at the Saturn Dealer... too pricey. Thanks, T
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| Thoughts on this? WendyC88 03:21:26 |
| | What do you all think of this? Anything to look out for in particular for this model? Price? I am on the hunt for a used Saturn for a 17yo.
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/car/740926839.html
Thx
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Thursday, 3 July 2008
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| 1997 Saturn - 2 issues WendyC88 13:35:59 |
| | Hi, my teenager is looking at buying a 1997 Saturn 2dr that appers to be a good deal if these issues can corrected inexpensively. It is a pivate seller and has been sitting 6 onths while he has been on deployment. Before taking it to a shop to get checked, I was hoping to get some guidance here.
1. The brakes are pulsing considerably and barely work. Owner states that since the car has been sitting in a humind climate for 6 months, the rotors have warped and will need to be changed? Sound about right or could the master cylinder or other components cause this?
2. The service engine soon light is on. If it's like my Toyota, it means to change the oil and can be reset manually. Is this the same thing? He said it has been on for almost a year and the car runs fine, that his mechanic had the machine diagnose it OK.
It's a good deal, considering these issues above, and it runs strong & drives well. Thanks fo any advice!
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