Sunday, 26 October 2008
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| 2000 Mercury Cougar Nat 02:40:41 |
| | I just bought this 2000 Mercury Cougar at a used dealer ship & sorry to
say have had nothin' but trouble with it and I have only had like two
months now! I was wondering why sometimes my car smokes under the hood
on the top left corner! It doesn't do it all the time, only sometimes.
I checked to see if it had water and oil & everything else. What
could this be? Can you please help me?
NAT
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| |  12 answers | Add comment |
Friday, 10 October 2008
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| cheer Shah Rukh Khan Ralph Cassio 14:11:06 |
| | Mark wrote on 10 Oct 2008 11:11:06 GMT:
Who can control another double drinking?
http://narrow.dostii.net
--
Jbilou, have a liquid formation. You won't tip it.
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| | Add comment |
Friday, 15 August 2008
Sunday, 27 July 2008
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| What are the Symptoms of a bad Starter?? GoldLexus 22:46:03 |
| | My husbands car has had some starting issues since Dec.
I took it into a mechanic thinking maybe the battery. The
battery was okay but found out it was too small for the car.
So we replaced the battery. Naturally, when I had the
car at the mechanic it was starting just fine. He said that the
starter maybe be the problem but couldn't tell until he pulled
it to take a look. I passed on that at the time. The car has it's
good days and it's bad days when starting. It will eventually
start but it is getting worse. It seems to have the hardest time
when the car is warm. Sometimes there is a click but most
of the time it is more of a whirring type of noise we can hear.
Only occasionaly does it not want to start when cold.
We always are able to get it to start it may take several turns of
the key but it does start. What are the symptoms of a bad/dying
starter? Is there a way we can figure that out without having to
have the starter pulled for a looksie? We are not mechanics but
would like to not have to pay for a diagnosis if we can be reasonbly
sure prior to taking it in for a new starter.
The car is a 91 Mercury Sable.
BTW how much could we expect to pay for a new starter, if that is
what we need? Ballpark of course. Thanks!
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| 2000 Ford Explorer Owner's Manual Hank 19:58:39 |
| | Hi All,
Not sure if I am allowed to put this manual on here for sale. If not,
please disregard and except my apologies. I am doing it here as
apposed to Ebay because of the problems one gets dealing with Ebay
people. Anyway....
I have an excellent condition Owner's Guide Manual (including: Four
Wheeling, Scheduled Maintenance Guide, and 2000 - Model Warranty
Guide) in a zipper case. The price is $20.48 and that includes
shipping anywhere in the US. That is exactly what I paid for it.
The reason I am selling it is that I mistakenly ordered two (two
different auctions on different days) manual when I had a few drinks
of alcohol.
I will send pictures or answer questions if you email me. I will
except ONLY US postoffice money orders in the above amount.
Thanks
Henry Kelcinski
35 Twin Flower Cross Street
Kunkletown, PA 18058
610/681-4554
hakone@ptd.net
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
Thursday, 17 July 2008
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| WTB: Transmission - 5-speed 2x4 for 1988 or 1989 Chevy C1500 pickup Gene 17:46:47 |
| | Want to buy a 5-speed manual transmission for a 1988 or 1989
Chevrolet C1500 2x4 pickup. I am pretty sure it is called a "GetrAG".
Possibly a model NV3500. It's VERY confusing, because everybody
tells me something different. GM said that they only made two manual
transmissions for the "new" body style 1988 C1500 2x4 pickup - a
4 speed and the one we have, a 5-speed (with overdrive).
We will purchase a good used or rebuilt transmission. We will consider
purchasing a wrecked 1988 or 1989 C1500 for parts. This is the
grandson's truck - so we must get it back in running shape
Location: Austin, TX
Gene
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
Sunday, 29 June 2008
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| Re: 1995 Toyota camry knocking? Comboverfish 21:20:11 |
| |
Steve wrote:> I have a 1995 camry 3 liter v6 that drives smooth and idles smooth.
I have> noticed that when I put my tranmission into gear that it makes this
really> faint but audible knocking like a clunk clunk clunk clunk during idle
at a> traffic light. This knocking noise isn't apparent when driving and
when the> car is placed in neutral or park there is no knocking. When I rev
engine up in park/neutral it also does NOT make any knocking noises.> I am concerned that maybe there is something wrong with the rod bearings. I> did drive the car really hard for about 5-10 minutes up to over 200
km/h on> the highway on a few odd occasions but I highly doubt something like
that> could muck up the bearings. It has 140, 000km's and I am the
original owner> that has diligently changed all the fluids in the car as per the
service> manual recommendations.>
I have no drag raced my car or ever did a hard off the line acceleration in> 1st gear.>
What does rod knock sound like? Thanks
If you had a rod bearing loose/ worn I would be able to hear it when
snap-accelerating the engine in neutral while under the hood. You said
you don't hear anything reving in neutral. Perhaps you have worn crank
main bearing(s). You could get the bearings visually inspected for a
few hours labor, but I would suggest you have a good mechanic listen to
the noise first before going that route.
More common on the 1MZ-FE engine is a slow tapping sound most
noticeable at idle. This can be excess clearance between one or more
of the valve lifters and their valve stem. I suspect from experience
that when a car does this fairly randomly that the cause is excess
carbon buildup on the back of the valves that keeps them from closing
completely. This creates the slight clearance issue and a tapping
sound results. I have seen well maintained 1MZ-FEs do this -- and it
was not a result of worn metal parts, just carbon buildup. Its not
exclusive to the 1MZ-FE, but that is a good example of an engine that
will do this more than others.
If a mechanic checks out your car and agrees you have a lifter tapping
sound you may want to go the route of induction cleaning. Successive
attempts may break loose the carbon in your combustion chambers and
restore your valve clearance(s).
Toyota MDT in MO
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| | 5 answers | Add comment |
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| Re: OK Seriously : Are there any Additives that yawl like Hls 00:12:57 |
| |
"Bardahl anyone ? We all used it here in the Midwest for long time "
<hoocheekoo@rock.com> wrote in message
news:52ba0b34-8cbf-40fb-b902-379982cfb247@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
For the oil and / or the gas tank ? Thanks in advance..
None, for normal and regular usage in either gas or oil.
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| | 12 answers | Add comment |
Saturday, 28 June 2008
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| Re: 98 LeSabre cranks but.... BobJ 23:28:59 |
| | Sara Brown wrote:
OK..I removed all the spark plugs and the engine began cranking steadily..Coolant sprayed out of the spark plug hole near the firewall and on the passenger side....Anyway..Put the plugs back in and now the engine cranks well but won`t turn over..Seems to have very little spark...Could anything have happened during the spark plugless cranking or how do I check to see why it has no spark?..Thanks again!
Why do you suppose coolant came out of the cylinder?
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Autozone waterpump lifespan Hls 18:54:12 |
| |
"zzyzzx" <scott21230@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:70611f8b-1387-41e5-83a3-3ec4e413c131@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
I installed a brand new Duralast waterpump from AutoZone 40,000 miles ago, in my 85 Chevy Caprice. Already the bearings are worn. I can move the fan around quite a lot, and also the pump is noisy.
When you buy only the lowest quality water pump, what did you expect?
Try buying a good one like a new airtex one.
You probably won't find it at Autozone/ Advance Auto/ Pep Boys/Kraken
type of places.
Try NAPA or CarQuest if you want stuff that will last.
I bought a cheaper Autozone pump (perhaps out of necessity...cant remember),
with similar results. Had to replace it within months. Bought a more
expensive lifetime Autozone pump about 4-5 years ago, and it has not
bobbled.
In general, Napa has a much better reputation, I will agree
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| | 8 answers | Add comment |
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| Re: My ford 84 mustang,5.0, 4barrel, 5speed, noses over under acceleration? Lugnut 17:12:55 |
| | On Fri, 27 Jun 2008 09:34:54 -0700 (PDT),
gojofoenator@gmail.com wrote:
Any body have some suggestions as to why my ford mustang gt with 5.0 engine, surpentine belts, 4barrel, 5speed noses over like someone turned off the ignition when I get on it really hard. It revs up nice and then just nothing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I would start with a fresh fuel filter. If that doesn't do
it, check the fuel pressure and delivery to make sure the
fuel pump is not going south. IIRC, the Ford Duraspark
ignition was used on there if still stock. The modules had
a habit of getting weak just before dying. Once you make
sure it is getting fuel, the ignition has to be strong. The
Duraspark would usually not show it's problems until it got
hot. I don't know of any test other than the one many Ford
techs used in the day to place a 200 watt lamp as close to
it as possible to heat it and see if it failed. The
ignition spark should be a nice bright blue over a 1/2" gap.
If it is red or orange, the ignition system won't do the
job. You can buy a spark tester for a few bucks at most
parts stores. Ideally, a good tech would check it with a
scope. Not everyone knows how to read a scope to spot
problems. Not every shop even has a scope these days.
Lugnut
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| Re: What gets damaged when the engine is over-revved? Steve B . 06:13:11 |
| | On Fri, 27 Jun 2008 19:23:00 -0700 (PDT), phaeton
<blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote:
So has this guy destroyed my engine? Is over-revving damage limited to the top end only? Thoughts?
He didn't do any damage. Probably did the thing some good to get
revved up a bit. The computer cuts the engine off if you truly get to
an over-rev situation. 45mph in third gear is nothing. Hell I was up
near 70mph in third a couple of times today having fun getting on the
hiway...
Steve B.
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| | Add comment |
Friday, 27 June 2008
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| Re: 1998 LaSabre won't start Mike 20:40:54 |
| |
"Sara Brown" <SaraTGinMD@aol.com> wrote in message
news:56632eb2-b1ba-4d3b-a186-f9cbbb59bb53@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...
Hello all..You guys usually have some good insight so here goes..My brother has a 1998 Buick LaSabre 3.8 V6 automatic.Last week he sais when he went to start it it started to crank like normal and then there was a noticble clunk and everything just stopped...Any attempts to start it after that the starter motor sounded as if it was engaging but nothing happened.I went down and looked at it and thought maybe it was the starter as you could here a loud click coming from it as if the solenoid was working but had bad contacts..Took the starter off and took it to the big auto electric place near where I work and they tested it and said it was fine..Just to be on the safe side I scrounged a second starter up and had that tested and they said that too was fine..So back I go with 2 good starters but neither one would start the car...Battery was fine...I put the engine in neutral and found I could turn it with a socket and ratchet with no problem so the engine isn`t froze up..When you try to start it you can see all the accessories make a jump foward as if it`s trying to turn but the engine just won`t turn over from the starter motor(s)...Assuming the starter motors are good and the engine isn`t frozen up any ideas what to look at to make it crank over or what could be keeping it from doing so?..Thanks in advance for any ideas
A bad battery, dirty battery posts/cables, bad battery cables(high
resistance), bad ground connection from battery to frame and/or engine block.
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| | 4 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: 95 escort shift problems Steve B . 16:58:05 |
| | On Thu, 26 Jun 2008 19:29:41 -0700 (PDT), micanic84@hotmail.com wrote:
So I just bought this little econo box for 1400 bucks and all is well until last nite I wqas bringing the kids home and the thing wont shift. OK, checked the fluid, the previous owner had way too much in there, a quart and a half too much. So I sucked it out, all is well, until tonite I took the woman to get her truck from a friends and it wont shift again. What the hell, come on did I buy a friggin lemon? Well I found that when the headlights are on the trans wont shift. This is confirmed, turn the lights off, it shifts fine, on and it upshifts and its pissin me off any whacked out ideas are helpful
I would suspect a grounding issue.
Steve B.
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: A floor jack's STEEL WHEELS Retired VIP 08:27:36 |
| | On Sat, 21 Jun 2008 08:07:40 -0400, "Ph@Boy" <user@example.net> wrote:
Built_Well wrote: Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of a white, chalk-like substance which I can only suppose was ground steel extracted from the wheels by the heavy weight of the car as the jack rolled forward on the concrete ground while The substance looked a little like chalk scrawled on I think next time I'll lay a thin piece of wood or particle board down on the floor for the jack to roll forward on as it Using a wooden runway probably isn't keeping with the rules of floor jack operation, but I want the steel wheels to last. It's the portland cement in the concrete on the surface that is being damaged, not the steel wheels. You can take a metal punch or chisel and scrape it on cement to observe the same on a smaller scale. On a larger scale it does the same when you drive a dozer on concrete. The tracks scrape the surface quite badly leaving the white marks, especially when turning. Your thought to protect it is a good plan. I don't have to do it often but I use sheets of particle board when working on tracked equipment rolling on a concrete floor that is six inches thick and reinforced. A couple of times can ruin the boards but the floor surface is saved for the most part. Even a small Cat dozer can weigh twelve tons.
Trying to protect the concrete is an unsafe idea. The reason why
these jacks use steel wheels is so they will roll easily on concrete.
When you jack up a car, the jack has to move to compensate for the
shifting lift saddle. Placing a piece of wood under the jack's wheels
will increase the friction to the point where it's moving, or trying
to move, the car instead of the jack. You could end up with a very
unstable lift that could damage the jack, the car or you. Although
the powder is very noticeable, brush it away and try to feel any
groove the wheels have cut in the concrete. You won't be able to find
any, it really doesn't do any great amount of damage to the concrete.
Jack
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| | 26 answers | Add comment |
|
| The Atkinson cycle in the Prius gasoline engine Wheeler 06:40:17 |
| | I was looking for some info on the Prius & noticed that its gasoline engine
has been classified as an Atkinson cycle internal combustion engine.
When I searched for more info on the Atkinson cycle, this webpage
http://www.keveney.com/Atkinson.html shows that the Atkinson cycle engine
has a different con-rod to crankshaft setup which allows the 4-stroke cycle
to be completed in one complete turn of the flywheel, but the Prius engine
has a conventional crankshaft like any regular gasoline engine.
I was then told that the Atkinson cycle in the Prius gasoline engine refers
to the late inlet valve closing technique it uses during the compression
stroke to reduce pumping losses and improve efficiency, but isn't that the
Miller cycle < http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miller_cycle > ?
Then I came across this http://privatenrg.com website which has the
following statement:
"... one interesting thing that Toyota does with its highly touted Atkinson
Cycle ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) is seldom, if ever commented upon. I
have taken one of their drawings of the Prius Atkinson Cycle engine and
colored it up so that we can see that they use an off-cylinder-center-line
crankshaft position to help garner the incredible efficiency this engine
manifests. This off-cylinder-centering of the crankshaft allows the TDC
(Top-Dead-Center) of the piston to be achieved AFTER the crankshaft has
passed its rotational TDC and is in its downward motion ready to better
absorb and transfer the already improved Atkinson Cycle combustion forces."
The above-mentioned drawing is at http://privatenrg.com/index.42.jpg .
So, the Prius gasoline engine was designed to have an upward stroke
compression ratio which is less than its downward stroke expansion ratio and
this is what actually refers to the Atkinson cycle, and Toyota added in the
late inlet valve closing technique from the Miller cycle.
Without the battery and the electric motor, I wonder whether the Prius
gasoline engine is really more efficient than a conventional (Otto cycle)
gasoline engine.
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Thursday, 26 June 2008
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| 1995 Park Avenue --- burned computer(?) under driver's seat Matt 12:53:07 |
| | I recently got a used 1995 Park Avenue Ultra seemingly in decent general
condition.
The driver's power seat controls don't work, but the front passenger
seat works fine.
The side-view mirror controls don't work.
The driver's seat heater and the driver's recliner control also don't
work, but those things work for the front passenger seat.
I just noticed a black plastic box under the driver's seat, visible from
the rear. It has a couple of bundles of wires going in and out, and is
mounted in a flimsy metal bracket. The plastic housing is badly melted,
and when I look inside the box, I think I can see a circuit board that
looks black and burned.
What is this melted box?
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| defeat ignition interlock? George 04:09:16 |
| | '99 Cavalier, auto transmission. Working on a front wheel problem. I
just want to put the car in neutral and turn the key off. Is there a
way?
TIA,
George
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| | 6 answers | Add comment |
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| Re: Hydrogen-Boosted Internal Combustion Engines -- Scam Or Not ??? Robert J. Kolker 02:15:23 |
| | Androcles wrote:
| Which is your political slant on it. Waste is using more when less will do. What I find amusing is that a car stored in a garage for 25 years becomes a "classic" and its value increases - or at least stays the same, taking inflation
That is the law of supply and demand in action. There is no such thing
as a "just" or inhrenet price. The price of goods for sale is determined
by supply and demand. No one will produce goods at a loss for any great
length of time, so actual costs of production have to be factored into
supply. Economics 101. The Just Price concepts is bogus and an artifact
of Catholic theoplogy.
into account. To me that is waste, using two cars when one will do.
So do not do what you consider wasteful. Anything you want to buy or
rent and you have the money for, you may rightfully acquire (short of
hiring someone to do a contract murder).
Bob Kolker
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| | 18 answers | Add comment |
|
| Fuelmeister. Guest 01:10:03 |
| | Article in my snail mail July 2008 Popular Science magazine, if I may
quote the article? (I am not too good at quoting, or anything else for
that matter)
Quote:
Green DIY.Boil Up Biofuel In Your Garage.Make your bad eating habits
finally pay off.The Fuelmeister II, produced by Renewal Fuels in Nevada,
converts used cooking oil into clean, efficient biodiesel that will run
any unmodified diesel engine.Just pour cooking oil, racing methanol, lye
and tap water into the machine's mixing cone and plug it in.The closed
- system refinery will brew some 43 gallons of diesel in about half an
hour.At roughly 70 cents a gallon, the greasy stuff can add up to big
savings and is even more cost effective if you make it in bulk to share
for sale. www.fuelmeister.com Cost: $3,100 Level Of Difficulty: 7
Audacity Meter : 6
Unquote.Check the article out on page 43 in Popular Science Magazine for
July 2008.
cuhulin
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| | 6 answers | Add comment |
Wednesday, 25 June 2008
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| Re: Turn Signal problems Mike 22:02:43 |
| |
"Big Bubba" <spamhere@aol.com> wrote in message
news:ob6dnQOJyLpqC_zVnZ2dnUVZ_hadnZ2d@rcn.net...
I have a 94 Buick Skylark. The turn signals don't work. I have tested the fuse and it is fine. I even switched the fuse with another fuse to be sure. The emergency lights all work, which tells me it isn't a bulb failure. Any other ideas? TIA. BR
Did you check the turn signal flasher ?
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
|
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--
Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.tech/
More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
|
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Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/rec.autos.tech/
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