Have you recently changed to a thinner oil (or has it been a long time

since the last change)? Also, hot weather can thin out your oil

tripping your pressure sensor.

It could be an oil pressure sensor on the fritz. This is a fairly

common problem with these cars- it happened to mine. On my car, it

was the oil pressure sensor on the side of the motor. It looks a

little bit like a spark plug with a rubber boot and a wire sticking

out if it. It may even be leaking a little. That's a good sign it's

bad. There's usually another one on top of the oil filter. Try

looking up the part on autopartswarehouse.­com (or wherever) and seeing

what yours looks like. They're fairly inexpensive and pretty easy to

replace.

Hi all,

I have a 91 golf gl 8v. The exhuast has at least one leak, a shot

muffler, and annoying rattle that has finally gotten the better of me;

so i'm replacing it this summer. I'm going to start ordering parts

soon and I'd like to know if you guys had any tips or things I will

find out I need half way through.

I plan on replacing everything except the cat, manifold and on.

I've been reading and it sounds like manifold cracking is a fairly

common symptom for older cars (I just passed 170k).

From what I've read, I should be on the lookout for an 8v dual pipe

manifold? What year range will fit? Can I get this new/order from

somewhere or do I need to spend some time in a junkyard?

-Matt

Apparently, there's no test for a plugged catalytic converter per your

reply. THAT is what I'm trying to determine before jumping to something

else. Just dust in the wind is what I'm getting... Nevermind.

--

Dave

"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1nospam@pleas­ehotmail.com> wrote in message

news:hPC8k.19668$co­7.2050@nlpi066.nbdc.­sbc.com...

I have a 1969 Beetle Chassis with a Fiberglass Kit Car on top. The kit

is a CMC 1929 Mercedes. Last night I found a fuel leak in the fuel

line exiting the tube and going to the engine. I was a piece of 1/4"

copper tubing with a pinched section and it was dripping fuel. I

removed the tubing and pluged the line with a screwdriver to stop the

leak. I want to replace the fuel line from the tube to the fuel pump.

Question. Is it better to run a soft fuel line from the tube to the

fuel pump or use a solid fuel line(copper tube) and have a rubber

piece at each end?

wires would lead me to believe that it is not a 1.8t

A GL might mean a 2.0l engine and not a VR6

Maybe Coolant Temperature Sensor.

Or Ign coil is cracking (common issue).

Engine Check Light on? If not maybe it is the CTS

A vag-com tool might help. ­

<jhutchcr...@gmail.­com> wrote in message

news:8758cb92-04b2-­4bfd-85cb-ce402f9a2e­ea@l64g2000hse.googl­egroups.com...

Yes it is a 2.0 L. I inspected the front of the ignition coil, where is

the common cracking point?

- Show quoted text -

He guys, got an issue I can't fix on my 99 Jetta. The car spits,

sputters, and hesitates when the gas pedal is pushed. However, 95% of

the problem goes away once the car is warmed up. I've replaced the

plugs and wires, cleaned the K&N air fliter, no dice. Any ideas

before I take it to the dealership, and most likely get hammered in

the wallet? It idles fine, so I don't know if it is a fuel problem or

not. Thanks.

Ok guys, I need some input and help. I just started my puma after it

has been in storage for almost 7 months. The clutch is stuck. I can

shift gears with the engine off but not while it is running. I can

start it in gear but it is in gear and moving and cannot be shifted

out of that gear (I've tried reverse and 1st). What is the best way

to get this undone? The pedal feels normal. Any suggestions before I

get creative would be appreciated...Denni­s

the flaps are wide open all the time as intended to

provide the air cooled engine cylinders a fresh, cool air flow as god

intended in the beginning. It takes a few seconds, check it. Dennis

Porsche GT2 is FASTER and gets better fuel economy than the Corvette

ZO6

Hello Again.

I just came back from Auto Zone auto parts.

The parts man there said I should try applying Permatex black rtv

sealant to the cracks in my cv boots and let them dry 24 hours.

He said:

1) clean the cv boots with rubbing alcohol and paper towels

2) apply the black rtv sealant to the cracks

3) let dry 24 hours

4) spray the boots with WD-40 after 24 hours and twice a year or every

6,000 miles to help keep them from cracking.

He also said not to use Armoral or similar products because that

makes them crack.

He also said to check for more cracks every once in a while.

I think this might work since the boots are not that old and the

cracks do not go all the way through.

--Just trying to be helpful--