Sunday, 30 March 2008
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| 2005 Jetta oil consumption Mike Brancato 06:53:16 |
| | Let me preface this with the statement that there are no oil leaks. The
car is parked in a garage with a painted garage floor 23.5 hours every
day, and there isn't a drop of oil on the floor. A dealer inspection
also indicated this was oil consumption and not an oil leak.
My wife has a 2005 (new body style) Jetta with the 2.5L I5 engine. She
has a little over 20K miles at this point. We forgot her 3rd (15K
miles) oil change by 4K miles and when we took it in, oil wasn't
registering on the dipstick and she was 4 quarts low according to the
dealer. I was quite surprised to see oil consumption like that for full
synthetic oil and a fairly new car. My 100K+ truck may consume 1/2
quart over 10K miles. The dealer we took it to, MAG - Midwestern Auto
Group, seemed to imply we had possibly destroyed the engine and that if
it continued to have problems, VW would not honor the warranty.
Needless to say they did not get on our good side by those types of
comments. So they changed the oil and we drove off with the
understanding that we would bring it back after 1000 or so miles for a
checkup on oil consumption.
When my wife took it back this week, they said she had lost 1/2 quart of
oil over her 1000 miles. The dealer then said this was NORMAL! They
said 1 quart every 2K miles is what they expect to see in oil
consumption. Maybe I'm missing something, but I expect roughly no oil
consumption after 1000 miles on a car with 20K miles. Additionally,
synthetic oil manufactures are now recommending 10K and 15K mile oil
changes unlike VW's 5K mile recommendation.
So I wanted to get the r.a.m.vw.w group's thought on if this is normal
or not. Should it consumer 1 quart every 2K miles? Did going over 4K
miles on an oil change destroy the engine?
Regards,
--
Mike Brancato
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| |  16 answers | Add comment |
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| 82 Diesel Westfalia Project for sale Hayden Chasteen 01:53:29 |
| | Please check out the following link to see this project and what is
available. Van is in Texas. TIA
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| | Add comment |
Friday, 28 March 2008
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| Re: Video Wanted Bug '59 03:08:51 |
| |
The link would be greatly appreciated as it is needed to settle a bet... Thanks Juan '72 SB
What's in it for us? :o)
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
Thursday, 27 March 2008
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| Re: 34 PICT-3 idle q. Project Magnet #1 07:02:08 |
| | halatos@gmail.com wrote:
On Mar 23, 11:38 am, " P.O.W." <georgewsp...@humboldt1.com> wrote: It idles fine on the choke , but warmed up it stalls pretty quickly. which screw should I turn (fat or little one) and which way, in or out? when you believe the only tool you have is a hammer. problems tend to look like nails. You have to turn both ;) The little one is the fuel adjustment. Turn out(CCW) for more fuel. The bigger screw is the 'bypass' screw, which controls how much of the air/fuel mixture is allowed to bypass the throttle plate at idle. Turn out(CCW) for more air/fuel at idle. Start with the choke full open. Loosen the screw on the throttle arm until it clears the choke cam. Then turn it in until it just touches the fast idle cam and then turn 1/4 turn more. Lightly bottom both screws on the side of the carb and then turn them both out 3 turns. Start the engine, warm it up if you haven't already. Check/set ignition timing and dwell. Adjust idle speed to about 850 rpm using the big screw. Turn the smaller screw in slowly until engine speed begins to drop, then turn smaller screw back out about 1/4 turn. Reset idle speed to 850 rpm if needed using the large screw. That should get you pretty close to perfect. Granted, if you are leaking air around the throttle shaft you can ignore all of the above, as your engine will never idle correctly with an air leak. Send the carb body in to Rimco in CA and have the bushings replaced, then give it a cleaning and put a repair kit in it. How to check for an air leak, you ask? With the engine idling give the ends of the throttle shaft a shot of carb cleaner in the space between the throttle arm and the carburetor body. If the idle speed changes you have an air leak.
A little note to add to this, parking the car on a fairly steep drive
while doing this doesn't work well. Get it somewhere level.
Les
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| | Add comment |
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| Thermostat and overheating Mandie @k@ Zepherous 01:42:06 |
| | Golf umwelt CL estate, 98. AAZ engine.
Keeps overheating, solved by replacing thermostat , bottom hose heats fine
etc
then within a couple of days car overheats, bottom hose stays cold.
We have replaced the thermostat 4 times now (from different sources)
Radiator has been replaces and the waterpump.
I also notice that there is quite often a stagnant smell through the heater.
I don't know if this is relevant but the previous owner totally removed the
pollen filter
so now just a hole there.
Any advice would be really appreciated.
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
Wednesday, 26 March 2008
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| 76 Bus fuel pump moaning? Derek A. Bill 02:30:56 |
| | Pretty suddenly last week I began to hear a fairly loud moan or low
pitched whine from the midsection of my Bus. No other symptoms, just
the moan. My experience with late 80s American fuel pumps leads me to
believe my fuel pump is to blame.
Anyone here experience this? If so...how long have I got, doc? And the
next question is, any reason not to go with a rebuilt model, as opposed
to a new $250 OEM one?
Many thanks in advance.
--
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
Tuesday, 25 March 2008
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| Anyone done business with busdepot.com? Stupendous Man 05:26:28 |
| | Satisfied with their performance? I need to place a fairly large order and
don't want to get hosed.
Beginning restoration on some 60s type 2s.
Thanks,
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
Monday, 24 March 2008
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| VR6 Hot Start Problem Alex Hopwood 19:37:00 |
| | Corrado VR6 has recently starting stumbling badly after a hot start. Starts
OK but then the idle speed drops until it almost stalls at which point
something kicks in and the revs shoot up after which they start to die
again. This repeats maybe 3 - 4 times until all of a sudden the revs shoot
up and come back down to a normal idle after which everything is fine. If
you try and use throttle to get the revs up it doesn't work, just stubbles
even more so it isn't the idle valve. VagCom does show Lambda dropping below
1 and going out of limits (<0.8) as the revs drop indicating the mixture is
too lean, which would account for the near stall. Also shows that when the
revs shoot up it's opening the injectors for much longer than normal (some
sort of last ditch attempt to stop the engine stalling I guess) so it seems
to be a fuel problem. Fuel pressure has been checked and seems to be pretty
much OK (3.3 Bar or so) so I'm a bit at a loss to see why it's doing this.
If it was an air leak somewhere (intake ducting or between manifold and cat)
or some other mechanical problem I'd have thought it would be there all the
time not just for a minute or so when the engine is hot. Anyone had the same
problem and know what the answer may be ???
Al H
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| | 4 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: VW Beetle (2002) Flasher unit location? Joseph Meehan 04:30:51 |
| | If memory serves me correctly it is part of the 4 way flasher button.
If it is not part if it, it is right behind it.
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia 's Muire duit
<telford.mark@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3db3b8ca-8ad1-48bf-84bc-1cc996a37157@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
Please could someone let me know the location of the flasher unit (turn signal) in a VW 2002 Beetle...thanks
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
Sunday, 23 March 2008
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| Re: substitute tire size Nate Nagel 21:37:11 |
| | RobertD32@gmail.com wrote:
I have a 1996 vw Passat GLX with 215/50 15 sizes tires. Does anyone know what the substitute size tire is for 215/50 15? Thanks Robert
What's wrong with just using 215/50s again? are you buying larger
diameter rims or something?
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
Friday, 21 March 2008
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| another Tach. q. P.O.W. 04:27:08 |
| | well, the VDO tach is working but it seems not to Zero.
when I turn the key it's needle moves up , but not quite to zero.
Is there an adjustment I know about?
--
when you believe the only tool you have is a hammer.
problems tend to look like nails.
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
Thursday, 20 March 2008
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| Re: cold start knock Mark Randol 23:40:24 |
| | In article <acc6534a-d9c0-4a08-a48b-4d92482957e7
@i29g2000prf.googlegroups.com>, gst200@aol.com says...
Hey ya'll. I got a 98 jetta 2.0. It has a knarly engine knock for about 1 to 2 min on cold starts. After that is sounds fine. No knock during heavy load (fast take offs or hills), only knocking on the cold starts. Where should I be looking to fix this?
That's a gasoline/petrol engine?
First, check that the oil level and weight used are correct according to
the owner's manual for your climate. Too 'heavy' and it won't pump
properly. Too 'light' and it flows too easily. At least one my '95
2.0l ABA gas motor, it likes 15W50 down to around freezing. Below that
and there can be a little startup tapping (5 seconds max). I think any
10W30, 10W40 is ok down to something like -40. (C or F, it's the same
number down there  Double check your owner's manual just to be sure
tho'. 20W40 or 20W50 will be too 'heavy' below freezing.
Second. Uh, when'd you last change your oil?
Third. Is the check engine or oil pressure gage/light telling you
anything? Does it work? (don't remember on my '95 if it comes on at
first turn on of the ignition or not - and for a '98 it's possible the
bulb could be out) There's been a 'rash' of oil pump replacements on
the group here lately - or at least it seems so - if 2 or 3 can be a
'rash'
Mark
'95 Jetta GLS
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| | 4 answer | Add comment |
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| Weird clutch problem on 1976 Rabbit? HerHusband 18:21:43 |
| | Lately my 76 Rabbit has been having a strange clutch problem. When I push
the pedal down and start to release it, it feels like the clutch is
engaging immediately (the car kind of jerks forward like I released the
clutch). But if I continue to let the pedal up it disengages again and then
feels normal the rest of the way as the pedal is released.
The clutch doesn't slip at all, there's no "grabbing" or "jerking" as
normally happens with a broken spring/warped disk/oiled disk. When it
works, it works nice and smooth.
To complicate diagnosis, it doesn't always act this way. I may drive it a
few days without any issues, then other days it may act up all day long.
I have about 70K miles on the clutch, and about 15K on the new clutch
cable. The clutch cable is properly adjusted, and I have no other clutch
problems or symptoms.
I'm not eager to replace the clutch again. Would a throwout bearing cause
this?
Thanks,
Anthony
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Removing front trailing arms Speedy Jim 03:49:58 |
| | Dave in WV wrote:
I haven't posted here in ages but I read often. Do you simply take the setscrew /bolt out of the arm and just pound the arm out with a BFH? We tried last night with a not so big hammer and it didn't budge. Is there a trick to it or just pound harder? Thanks, Dave in WV
Assume you have already removed the spindle from the arms.
No tricks; they should pretty much slide off with a
little persuasion...
Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| What does it mean? Dioclese 02:56:34 |
| | 88 Fox, 1.8L, CIS-E.
Crank the engine. At around 1/4 second, sounds like its going to start (it
fired). Remainder of time, nothing but turns over. Tried pedal to the
metal for 10 seconds as well.
Removed the electrical connector to the cold start valve, car starts
immediately and remains running normally. Drives same as before this came
up.
--
Dave
My vote in this primary was for the lesser
of many evils...
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| | 3 answer | Add comment |
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| Measuring Piston & Cylinders Mel P. 00:22:12 |
| |
I have a bore micrometer and a 3-4" micrometer...
1. Is there a max difference between the Cyl ID & Piston OD?
2. What should the rings diameters be for 40 HP pistons? how about 85.5 mm
pistons?
Anything thing else that should be measure?
tia,
--
Mel P.
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| | Add comment |
Wednesday, 19 March 2008
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| Re: Wolfgang Porsche to join Volkswagen supervisory board Regal953 16:57:56 |
| | Ears wrote:
Volkswagen is the larger company here. There really is no comparison. Volkswagen is a HUGE company: Audi Lamborghini (sort of) Bentley Skoda There's more, too. They're like the GM of Germany. The third largest car company in the world (GM and Toyota are 1 and 2, respectively). Larger doesn't mean richer here. Porsche is the most profitable car
company in the world and at this time owns more than 20% of VW stock,
and increasing. It used to be the other way around.
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| gas in oil Chris Miller 06:13:00 |
| | i've got a newly rebuilt engine (old case and pistons, but i think most of
the rest of it is new [new rings, push rods, valves, etc.]) and i've changed
the oil two times since the rebuild which was about 600 miles and 4 months
ago. noticed with this oil change that there was a gas smell in the oil and
that the oil didn't look or feel right either. is this a normal symptom of a
newly built engine or did something go wrong?
also, put on a new carb recently and i can't say that i'm the best at tuning
those things so does that have anything to do with it?
-c
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| TDI? Illusion123a 05:11:24 |
| | What are your experiences with a TDI? I recently got a new job and am
looking to purchase a new, or used car to
replace my 2002 Hyundai accent. I am looking for something good on gas (I
will be driving about 1 hour each way), and some with good crash test
ratings. I was thinking a Jetta TDI or some type of Subaru. I also want
my
car to handle well in the snow and be reliable. I would like to find a
nice
newer used, but am leery of purchasing a newer used (afraid i'll get a
lemon); on the other hand I dont want to get killed by the payments
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| | 12 answers | Add comment |
Tuesday, 18 March 2008
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| HID conversion kit Ericwu 12:57:29 |
| | HID conversion kit supplier, we are looking for buyers . For more
information, please contact office in China: biz.hid@gmail.com
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| | Add comment |
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| Re: Best way to replace CV boots and axles? P.O.W. 08:03:16 |
| | In article
<1e080b4f-5738-40be-a463-1e34dde47023@a23g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
info@virtualwnc.com wrote:
I really new to all this, but I was wondering what is the best way to get the beetle up enough to replace the cv boots and axles? Do I need to pull the engine to get at the transaxle?
one trick I learned in dealing with the bolts. when about to loosen the
bolts. tap the tool into the head of the bolt. there's dirt in there and
you definately want bury that .
You don't want to strip out the head of those bolts.
good luck and to answer the q. it's sure easier with the engine out but
not necessary . and don't forget those jack stands. no cinder blocks. OK?
--
when you believe the only tool you have is a hammer.
problems tend to look like nails.
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| | 7 answers | Add comment |
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| Re: Broken Seat Heater Lost In Space/Woodchuck 06:15:48 |
| | one fuse works both seats. Could be as easy as the switch or as hard as the
seat heater element. The only way to know for sure is start with a wiring
diagram and make some checks.
<ksternberg1@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:c435860c-543b-409e-bd11-3846be08a851@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
The seat heater in my 2003 Jetta wagon isn't working. The driver's side works fine. Could this be something easy, like a blown fuse? If not, what else? Thank you very much.
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| | Add comment |
Sunday, 16 March 2008
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| actually OIL cooled P.O.W. 22:34:34 |
| | the air cools the oil. ACVW's have a radiator .. for the oil.
but, you knew that.
--
when you believe the only tool you have is a hammer.
problems tend to look like nails.
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| | 10 answers | Add comment |
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